Journeys way off the beaten path, and the power of everyday people.

Dusk at Kirkujefell, Iceland

Kirkujefell, Iceland, as night takes over, and the first stars sparkle. It was snowing and windy, and cloudy, just a few minutes before this was taken. We waited. Weather can change so quickly in Iceland. We had a good half hour of clear sky, and th…

Dancing light: Northern Iceland

Somewhere south of the northern-most city in Iceland, Myvarten lake takes visitors past small farms, rock formations and the famous Dimmu Borgir. The Dimmu Borgir are unusually shaped ancient lava fields that remind people of the ruins of an ancien…

People of Iceland: Ragna

Meet Ragna, who was selling potatoes at the market in Reykjavik. She solved the mystery of the individual street signs by each house... Not the family name but the land parcel. If it was divided, then there's I and ll or even lll. She asked me:…

Freeze mid stream?

Peeing by the side of the road iin -5 Celsius and wind factor "blow everything over and freeze your face off," is pretty much the worst idea you can have.…

The northern lights

Getting this shot was torture. Wind made it so cold we could not feel our fingers after three timed exposures. Karim stopped for me at this spot that he saw driving, and I went to test out what I've learned over the past 4 days, him showing me…

People of Iceland: The captain

HUSAVIK, ICELAND — Alfred Rafnsson has spent 40 years as a captain, on small fishing boats and trawlers, giant factory ships, and with the United Nations food and agriculture organization. When he retired, he taught navigation in Namibia, Africa, b…

Ice caving in Jokulsarlon Glacier

One of the largest free-standing glaciers is Jokulsarlon, in southern Iceland. Huge ice sheets moved through here in 1251 and carved out the landscape .... seemingly endless fields of ice and snow, with black rocks jutting up from underneath, and b…