Journeys way off the beaten path, and the power of everyday people.

Ugali cooking lesson

Unless you’ve eaten ugali, you have not eaten. This, Lydia says, is what most Kenyans feel when it comes to their staple of maize flour cooked with boiling water into a thick cake. Lydia teaching me: Most times, that means a portion sliced into…

White girl? Wah!!!!!

Mzungu? Wah! I think I look like this smiley person, but not everyone is happy to see me! Mzungu means white person and I hear it all the time. Kids run alongside the piki-piki (motorbike) and shout it with a wave, or wave wide-eyed, adults too.…

Staredown in western remote Kenya

You have stare downs. With cows. I think she won. This is Hardley, with whom I stay, explaining how the skulls are used during Tiriki circumcision ceremonies, which are held every 5 years. I'd never get into that one; definitely. This is at th…

Patience, grasshopper.

I remember when I was in Budapest, after four days or so I was ready to move on. I went to the station to get a ticket for the afternoon train. It was more than three hours late, so I went back to the hostel and stayed another day. The next mornin…

Bravo, fat camp!

Travel and living in El Sauce, Nicaragua is the best diet ever. It's 100 degrees in April and May. You sweat your face off, all the time. You walk around, hike, have fun, have the time of your life with these amazing people ... and hauling br…

Hablo Espanol .

Interesting 5-minute exchange with the woman in the tienda down the road. I wanted peanuts. DId not see any. I tried to explain what I wanted: you know, a fruit from a tree but it's not a fruit like an orange. No, not a pineapple. Or a pea. You c…