Journeys way off the beaten path, and the power of everyday people.

15 again

10 p.m. on a "schoolnight," on the back of a motorcycle, puttering along the pavement, past the neighbors sitting outside their houses or on the street, with a friend riding your draft, close enough you could grab the dirty wheel. They are…

A great day

Started the day with a 2.5-hour wait at my least favorite spots in any country: the bus station. Finally got to El Sauce and not enough time to hike to the waterfall so we grabbed friends and went to Rio Grande, where there are 20-foot or so rock…